Een tof artikel over bodysurfen op Patagonia.com. Hier een paar highlights van het artikel. ‘We kunnen ons wel herkennen in dit artikel.
“The sport of body surfing is full of people who at one time or another have demonstrated a potential for becoming either poets or jerks or both.” —Curry Kirkpatrick, “The Closest Thing to Being Born,” Sports Illustrated, 1971
There’s no money in bodysurfing. No media. No aging Aussies striving to scrape a free buck by coaching semi-talented children to their doom. There are no broken dreams, no failed careers. No home-schooled kids struggling to fulfill their parent’s foiled aspirations. There’s no industry to support, nor professionals to pamper.
There’s a purity inherent in bodysurfing that no amount of popularity can ever kill. It’s the only form of wave-riding that allows one to be physically a part of the ocean, rather than apart from it.
Foto: Sander F
Rider: Emiel N
